Kings Canyon National Park: The Dual Legacy of Water

I leisurely drove down Route 180 from my hotel in Fresno to the fork in the road where you can either choose to turn right to visit Sequoia National Park or bear left to enter Kings Canyon National Park.  I was extremely excited to visit Sequoia NP because it has a grove of trees which are some of the largest and longest living organisms in the world.  But Kings Canyon?  I had never heard of the place.  Sequoias would have to wait while my curiosity won out. 

As I entered the visitor center a park ranger exclaimed, “Welcome to Kings Canyon National Park!”. 

I responded, “Um, to be honest, I’ve never heard of this place”. 

She smiled and said, “Yeah, we like it like that.  The other parks get big crowds.  We are happy with being off the radar.”

The Kings River carves its way through the valley.

She explained that Kings Canyon is unique in that it has two valleys.  One is a V-shaped valley which was formed primarily by water erosion and a U-shaped valley which was formed when a glacier receded and pulled much of the rocks and sediment away.  So melted snow and ice turned into water and formed the V valley and frozen water formed the U valley.  Interesting.  I decided to investigate both valleys.

The roads curve around a dangerous landscape of rocks and boulders.

The V valley was amazing.  Sharp slopes had been carved into the mountains leaving them with jagged ravines for the water to flow.  Even from a couple thousand feet above, I could hear the roar of the Kings River below. 

The base of the mountains in the U valley were littered with massive granite boulders larger than cars and houses.  This left the U valley with wide gorges where grass and ferns grew waist-high and covered the valley floor. 

I'm 6 feet tall and about 275lbs in this picture.  This is a massive hunk of granite.  

Although I knew nothing about Kings Canyon National Park until I walked into the visitor center that day, I am forever grateful that I explored this national park.  I now believe that Kings Canyon NP is one of the most underrated places in the entire country.  I highly recommend this park for a day or week-long visit. 

Have you visited Kings Canyon NP?  Did you like it?  Would you agree that it is an underrated park?

For more information about Kings Canyon National Park, click the link below.

https://www.nps.gov/seki/index.htm

Yosemite National Park: Water

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Whenever someone asks me where they should stay when visiting Yosemite National Park, I never hesitate.  There’s a small town down Route 140 about 40 miles from Yosemite Valley called Mariposa.  It has about 2000 residents who make their livelihoods from park visitors with several lodging choices and a couple of taverns.  The drive up Route 140 sets the tone for what you are about to experience in the park.  The road hugs the Merced River and provides a relaxing view of mountains, water and vegetation.  In one section, you must take a one-lane bridge across the river because part of the eastern road was destroyed after a rock slide (see pictures below). 

The rockslide destroyed the road on the right side of the river.

As you get closer to the park, the rapids get more treacherous.  In many areas, swimming, boating, wading and fishing are prohibited.  The water is so rough, fast and unforgiving that you would suffer serious injury or death if you fell. 

The upper Merced River in many parts of Yosemite National Park is much calmer and slow moving.  The water is so clean and clear from the snow melt that you can see the color of the stones at the bottom. 

The first major waterfall you encounter when entering the park is Bridalveil Falls.  It is on your right as you drive into Yosemite Valley and is a short walk from the parking area.  You can walk right up to the falls and be sprayed with its mist which can be refreshing on a hot summer day. 

Tenaya Lake is a very popular locale to rest and relax.  The surrounding mountains feed the lake and provide a peaceful space for humans and wildlife. 

Yosemite Falls is the crown jewel of waterfalls in the park.  At 2,425 feet, it drops in three sections, the bottom of which can be accessed by foot.  The roar of the falls can be heard in the surrounding meadows when the flow is strong.  The flow can dwindle in the late summer and into the fall season. 

Water can appear out of anywhere in the park, especially in the later spring and early summer.  As the snow rapidly melts, waterfalls form and may run for months before drying up just before winter visits again.  Such is the case with Ribbon Falls, which is a couple of miles down the road from Yosemite Falls.  It is longer than the upper Yosemite Falls drop but has a much narrower flow of water. 

The beauty of the larger waterfalls cannot be matched but the simplicity of some of the smaller roadside waterfalls and lake tributaries beautify all areas of the park.  Keeping your eyes peeled is a necessity to capture the full scope of how water cleanses and breathes life into Yosemite National Park. 

Do you have a favorite waterfall, lake, body of water?  Where is it located?  Why is it your favorite?

For more information about Yosemite National Park, click on the link below.

https://www.nps.gov/yose/index.htm

Yosemite National Park: Boulders, Olmsted Point, Snow, Safety and Camping

This is a broad-based article.  I wanted to point out some interesting topics that didn’t have enough content for a blog article on their own. 

Boulders can be found all over Yosemite: in river beds; at the side of a road; next to a campground; or at the base of a mountain.  Whether exposed by erosion, drawn to another area due to a receding glacier or is a protrusion of granite emerging from below the earth’s surface, boulders are a prominent feature in the park.  Some are bigger than your house or car.  Others can be bigger than an apartment building.  I always wonder if a boulder fell from a mountain, the incredible sound it must have made when it came crashing down (no comments about whether someone was there to hear it fall). 

Olmsted Point is a scenic overlook on the Tioga Road.  FYI, Tioga Road is only open during the summer and I recommend that you drive it when given the opportunity.  Frederick Law Olmsted was an architect and conservationist who designed several municipal parks around the country including Central Park and Prospect Park in New York City.  He was instrumental in preserving land for our national parks.  This location was dedicated in his honor. 

Snow can be found almost year-round in the park.  I have been to Yosemite in July and seen snow even at low elevations, especially in shady areas.  In years where there has been significant snowfall, the waterfalls will have a strong flow of water from May through mid-July as the snow melts.  During the years of the California drought, even large waterfalls like Yosemite Falls would run dry in the late summer.

Safety is of immense importance when spending time in our national parks.  Keeping a safe distance from wild animals, making sure you have enough food and water while camping and hiking and keeping your eyes on the road while driving is extremely important.  For example, the picture below shows a road where there is no guardrail and a drop of several hundred feet.  Distracted driving could lead you over the edge and once you’re falling there is nothing but the bottom to stop you.

Camping is a very popular activity in the parks.  Campers come with all different strategies to try to conquer the wilderness.  Some will “camp” at one of the lodges/hotels, others will drive their big RV’s, some will tow popup campers and the true modern pioneers will pitch a tent and rough it.  The tents in the picture can be rented and include a stove. 

Have you camped in the parks?  Have you been to Olmsted Point or taken a picture next to a massive boulder?  Tell us about your experiences in the park.

For more information about Yosemite National Park, click on the link below.

https://www.nps.gov/yose/index.htm

Yosemite National Park: Sentinel Dome, Taft Point and Glacier Point

When I was a kid, the ABC Wide World of Sports TV show profiled several professional mountain climbers.  They would detail the hundreds of hours of preparation the climbers took planning the route, purchasing their supplies, consulting with their guides and getting into tip top shape.  While watching the show, I thought it would be cool to wear the boots with spikes on them and have an ice axe in hand.  But then I thought, who would want to go through that much pain in icy conditions and bone-chilling temperatures for days just to stand on top of a rock for a few minutes then climb back down? I never truly understood the feeling that the climbers felt from scaling thousands of feet to stand on top of the world…..until I went to Sentinel Dome. 

Views of Sentinel Dome from the trail.

Now I am fully disclosing that I did not need spiked boots or an ice axe to climb Sentinel Dome and it was a warm 80 degrees in July when I made the 1.2 mile hike.  Despite my lack of pain and struggle to reach the summit (I did experience a shortness of breath due to the elevation), I fully understood why climbers get that euphoric feeling rushing through their veins when they are standing on top of the world.  Sentinel Dome gives you a spectacular 360 degree view of Yosemite and a unique vantage point to take in Yosemite Valley.  For those who do not wish to hike for miles and miles, this is the best view with minimal effort.  The hike is not without some challenge as the footing can get precarious on the trail so make sure you are wearing quality footwear.  Everyone who I’ve encountered who has made the trek to Sentinel Dome agrees that it is their favorite spot in the park. 

Some squirrels love living on top of the world.

Sentinel Dome and Taft Point are located just off the Glacier Point Road with a small parking lot (about a mile from Glacier Point) on the west side of the road.  If you walk left from the parking lot you will end up at Taft Point while walking to your right takes you to the path for Sentinel Dome.  Both hikes are just over 2 miles (roundtrip) in length. 

Taft Point promises views that are hard to come by anywhere else in the world.  You can walk to the edge of a cliff and look straight down 3000 feet.  To give you some perspective, the Empire State Building is 1454 feet tall so the Taft Point view is like stacking one ESB on top of a second ESB.  I willingly admit that I have a fear of heights to I’m not one of those folks who will sit on the edge of the cliff with their legs dangling over the edge. 

The sunsets are pretty nice too.

Finally, Glacier Point is one of the most popular sites in Yosemite and is located at the end of Glacier Point Road.  This location sports similar views as Taft Point except it’s not a straight down/over the edge/heart stopping view.  There is ample parking and almost always dozens or hundreds of tourists admiring the view. 

All three of these locations are within a couple of miles of each other and provide amazing perspectives on the park and the world.  My favorite is Sentinel Dome.  If you’ve been to all three, which is your favorite and why?

For more information about Yosemite National Park, click on the link below.

https://www.nps.gov/yose/index.htm

Yosemite National Park: The Meadows

Yosemite is not just massive slabs of granite jutting out of the ground.  Lush meadows are rolled out like carpet throughout the park.  Yosemite Valley has some of the most beautiful grasslands you will see for hundreds of miles.  In some areas, the grass is almost fluorescent in its glow as the sun’s rays illuminate it on a cloudless day. 

With so much vegetation, area wildlife has a full menu of food to choose from.  Grass, oats and rotting logs filled with insects and worms give predators a smorgasbord of fuel to get through the cold winters. 

The Tioga Road, which runs east/west through Yosemite is only open during the summer season.  In Yosemite, summer might not start till late June or sometime in July.  Work crews may have to clear several feet of snow around Memorial Day weekend so the road may be open for visitors. 

Tuolumne Meadows is a gorgeous, wide open landscape on Tioga Road. 

Lembert Dome is very popular with climbers. 

Walking across these marshy expanses can be treacherous.  Not that you will be mauled by bears, but the mosquitos will attack you in droves as soon as you try to cross these wetlands.  The soil is extremely wet and you are advised to keep off the middle of the grasslands as much as possible.  The national park service does its best to minimize the impact that visitors have on the environment and wildlife in the parks.  Staying on designated trails is an important rule that must be followed to maintain the ecosystem. 

These pictures were taken in July 2010.  Snow is usually still visible on the higher elevations and in shady areas of lower elevations.  In years where the snow pack has been significant, flow to the waterfalls can be heavy through the beginning of August. This also benefits these meadows as they soak up huge amounts of water.

There are times where fires can ravage a park.  Prescribed burns are conducted by the park service to eliminate useless scrub brush and strengthen all living areas of the parks.  Despite their best efforts, fires still destroy acres of park land in the US every year.  It may take decades after a fire to restore the full vibrancy of an area devastated by a fire.  Grasslands can help in the meantime with preventing soil erosion as larger trees and bushes begin to grow back to their regular size.  Mother nature always finds a way to heal herself. 

Have you been to any of these meadows?  Which one is your favorite and why?

For more information about Yosemite National Park, click the link below.

https://www.nps.gov/yose/index.htm

Yosemite National Park: The Valley

As you enter the park, you navigate under a massive rock formation precariously perched above the road.  A leisurely drive through the forest tries to calm you but the anticipation keeps you on the edge of your seat.  Sunlight finds its way through the limbs of the backwoods to taste the moisture of the soil. 

It sneaks up on you, hidden within the forest until it is right on top of you.  You never see it coming.  It’s like someone jumping out of the birthday cake to surprise you.  The first thing people usually say is, “Wow!!!” 

El Capitan confronts you as you slowly bear left.  There it is in all its glory, 3000 feet of granite.  The face is nearly vertical and a major challenge for even the most experienced climbers. 

As you continue through Yosemite Valley, protrusions of rock jut into the sky, one stretching higher than the next.  Tunnel View is one of the most famous and photographed areas of any national park.  Busloads of tourists and school children unload their vehicles and load their cameras with memories of a grand scene.

Although not tame, animals are so accustomed to visitors that they might walk right up to you while you visit.  It is important to never feed the animals as they could become sick from the food or become reliant on tourists for their nourishment. 

Bridal Veil Falls is the friendliest of the waterfalls.  It is a short hike of less than 100 yards to its base from the parking lot.  The falls run your round and are flush with flow. 

Snow rolls into Yosemite Valley in April 2013

Last but not least is Half Dome.  It is the sitting king of the valley.  Campers rest in its shadow and it is a favorite of climbers.  You must register in advance to climb the side of the granite monarch via a system of cables.  Climbing the vertical face should be left to the professionals. 

Yosemite Valley is nature’s amusement park for us nature nerds ensuring that everyone has a jaw-dropping experience there. 

Have you been to Yosemite Valley?  What is your favorite part of the valley and why?

For more information about Yosemite National Park, click the link below.

https://www.nps.gov/yose/index.htm

Joshua Tree National Park: Converging Environments

“Be very careful if you are hiking.  Take plenty of water with you because you can become dehydrated quickly.”--Park Ranger

June in Joshua Tree National Park will not be confused with February in Buffalo.  It’s hot and dry and the sun is extremely strong.  You might not notice it if you are driving in an air-conditioned car or just spend a few minutes standing in the heat.  Walking a trail in this environment can be fatal if not taking the proper precautions. 

Keys View offers an incredible view of the Coachella Valley.  The peaks of the mountains on the opposite side of the valley are the tallest peaks in southern California. 

Joshua Tree is a unique place.  Some of the rocks have been dated to 1.7 billion years old.  These precarious rock formations owe their architecture to erosion. 

Check out the rock balancing on the top left portion of the pile.

This rock was teetering on edge. It was also in the shape of a pork chop--it's always about food

From the National Park Service Joshua Tree Website:

Joshua Tree’s nearly 800,000 acres were set aside to protect the unique assembly of natural resources brought together by the junction of three of California’s ecosystems:

•The Colorado Desert, a western extension of the vast Sonoran Desert, occupies the southern and eastern parts of the park. It is characterized by stands of spike-like ocotillo plants and “jumping” cholla cactus.

•The southern boundary of the Mojave Desert reaches across the northern part of the park. It is the habitat of the park’s namesake: the Joshua tree. Extensive stands of this peculiar looking plant are found in the western half of the park.

•Joshua Tree’s third ecosystem is located in the westernmost part of the park above 4,000 feet (1,219 m). The Little San Bernardino Mountains provide habitat for a community of California juniper and pinyon pine.

Have you been to Joshua Tree National Park?  What is your favorite part of the park and why?

For more information about Joshua Tree National Park, click the link below.

https://www.nps.gov/jotr/index.htm

Death Valley National Park: Minimalist Beauty

The further south you drive the less vegetation, animal life and human life you see.  It’s certainly not a moonscape but a certain "Wild West" feeling emerges as you descend into the valley.  I sped faster to arrive just short of sundown.  The sun was running to the west side of the Sierra Nevada mountains and I was still dozens of miles from Panamint.

Rather than check in to the “resort”, I kept driving to reach the center of the first valley you reach when driving in from the north.  It was mere minutes before the sun would escape till tomorrow so I stopped to preserve it with my camera.  As I opened the car door, a young coyote approached as if he had waited all day for me to play with him.  I attempted to shoo him away but, looking forlorn, he circled the car and stared at me again.  I chose to drive down the road another fifty yards to take my pictures.  It was obvious to me that past visitors had fed him which now made him oblivious to the dangers of humans.  This is a huge no no for park visitors.  Never feed the animals because they become dependent on food from humans.  Also, you could feed them something that is harmful to them.

As I exited the car, the sun’s orange blaze shined bright above the mountains as thunder rumbled in the distance.  Although Death Valley only receives 2-3 inches of rain per year, rain was a factor in my visit.  Rain did not materialize that evening but I was unable to reach certain areas of the park which were damaged by heavy floods just seven months earlier.

The sand dunes of Mesquite Flats kick up tons of dust on a windy day.  Sand dances across the roads just like snow on a winter’s day. The picture above was taken near Badwater Basin which is North America’s lowest point at 282 feet below sea level.  Death Valley is a desolate place yet still holds its beauty.  A land of high highs and low lows. In a matter of minutes you can descend from 5000 feet in the mountains to below sea level.  Simply unlike anywhere else in North America. 

Have you been to death Valley National Park?  What was your experience like?  What is your favorite part of the park and why?

For more information about Death Valley National Park, click the link below.

https://www.nps.gov/deva/index.htm