Lassen Volcanic National Park

Sunset along the California Aqueduct

On the first day of my trip, I was nearing Sacramento and got hungry (note: I’m always hungry but this was already past dinner time). As I took a back road off Route 5 to reach the small town in the distance, I drove over a bridge and the sun hit the water perfectly.  Dinner could wait another 30 minutes as the sun disappeared. 

Lassen Volcanic National Park 2019 Trip

I try to provide quality and unique information here so you will frequently see me post pictures of the information available in the parks. This includes the information signs and boards that tell the story of the park. The Sulphur Works are hot and stinky. These hot spots naturally occur in the park as it is a volcanic cauldron.

These pictures were taken in mid-September 2019.  I didn’t have a lot of time to spend in the park but I traveled through the main road which climbs through the mountains and provides breathtaking views.

There was some evidence of fire ripping through some areas.  Canoeing is a favorite activity of visitors to the park. 

There are some incredible views of mountains, meadows, and lakes throughout the park. 

2023 Trip

I went back to Lassen to try to get more pictures and video of the park.  Unfortunately, they were still working on removing snow from the previous winter—and this was on July 4th.  There is no controversy that we are thankful for the heavy snowfall during the winter but it hampered my efforts to get to many areas of the park. 

At the visitor center, there are a series of rocks and the story of their formation that you can tour.  This park is unique in that it has had extensive volcanic activity over millions of years.  The diversity of the landscape due to these eruptions has given us a treasure trove of scientific information about our land. 

There were certain areas that were closed when I visited the park. I wanted to hike the Bumpass Hell Trail but it was closed. I also wanted to hike the Cinder Cone trail but the road was closed to that area. Maybe next time.

The Dixie Fire in 2021 was the largest fire in California history.  Over 963,000 acres were burned, many of those acres were inside the park.  You can see some of the damage in these photos. 

Although the Dixie fire was a tragedy, the forest always recovers and, when driving through the park, you can see growth beginning to take shape. Hopefully with more water due to the melting snow, the forest will recover even faster than it normally does. For more information about Lassen, check out their website:

Lassen NP

Have you visited Lassen?  What is your favorite part?  If you want to visit the park, email me at midlifecrisistraveler@gmail.com and I will help you plan a trip.

Bryce Canyon National Park: The Navajo Loop Trail

I visited Bryce Canyon multiple times from November through April.  It is a beautiful park and it is in an excellent location to visit multiple parks within a couple hours drive time.  

Sunset Point is the center of the universe at Bryce Canyon National Park.  The panoramic view of the park is a photographer’s paradise.  If you head to your left, you can take the Rim Trail to Sunrise Point.  From there, you can continue to the Fairyland Loop Trail or the Queens Garden Trail which take you deep into Hoodoo country.  A shorter and easier trail which provides a healthy dose of Hoodoos is the Navajo Loop Trail.  This trail heads off to the right of Sunset Point and allows you an up close and personal experience that you can’t get from the pedestrian viewing areas next to the parking lots. 

Bearing to your right, the trail will allow you to stroll next to Hoodoos via a series of switchbacks down to the bottom.  The trail is flat and well-maintained but the decline of this trail measures 550 feet so it is not necessarily easy if you aren’t used to walking at 8000-foot elevation.  It is important that you are careful when traversing the switchbacks.  Although they are a smooth surface, there are no railings or barriers to prevent you from falling over the edge. 

The trail is 1.3 miles and offers an upward view of the landscape. Being below these structures and seeing the orange flavor of the sandstone against the blue sky and puffy white clouds offers a completely different perspective.  They are rightly perched on pedestals for us to pay homage.  The trail features boulders perched on high, trees growing in less than perfect locations and curious rock formations that have defied erosion. 

At the bottom, you are awed by the majesty and sheer will of these formations which have withstood the test of The Big 3: climate, weather and time.  They stand proudly as a reminder of the past and a stubbornness towards the future.  They are defying The Big 3 as long as possible.  Someday, they will all have crumbled and humans will have nothing but memories and pictures of their grandeur. 

The picture above has two stone structures that look like bridges, hence the name Two Bridges.  Can you see both of them linking the two walls of the trail?

When you visit Bryce Canyon, I encourage you to walk this trail.  Take your time and enjoy the unique views and characteristics of this park.  Be safe and feel the impressiveness of the history of this land.  Imagine if you were the first person to see it this way.  How would you feel?  What thoughts would you have?  

Have you visited Bryce Canyon National Park?  What was your experience like?  Please share your thoughts with us.

For more information about Bryce Canyon NP, click the link below.

Bryce Canyon National Park (U.S. National Park Service) (nps.gov)

Bryce Canyon National Park: Woohoo for Hoodoos

Mossy Cave

Before we get deep into the heart of Bryce Canyon National Park, there is a small area down the road from Bryce Canyon proper called Mossy Cave.  If you drive about 3 miles east from the intersection of Routes 12 and 63, you will happen upon a small parking lot on the right.  Don’t skip past this quaint corner of Bryce Canyon.  This slice of the canyon is an easy way to get up close and personal with the Hoodoos that capture everyone’s fascination.  Hoodoos, pine trees and a small waterfall await your arrival.  This is an appetizer of what is to come. 

The next two pictures are of the surrounding area.

What is a Hoodoo?

Here is part of the description from the National Parks website:

https://www.nps.gov/brca/learn/nature/hoodoos.htm

General Description:

Hoodoos are tall skinny spires of rock that protrude from the bottom of arid basins and "broken" lands.  At Bryce Canyon, hoodoos range in size from that of an average human to heights exceeding a 10-story building. Formed in sedimentary rock, hoodoo shapes are affected by the erosional patterns of alternating hard and softer rock layers. The name given to the rock layer that forms hoodoos at Bryce Canyon is the Claron Formation. This layer has several rock types including siltstones and mudstones but is predominantly limestone. Thirty to 40 million years ago this rock was "born" in an ancient lake that covered much of Western Utah. Minerals deposited within different rock types cause hoodoos to have different colors throughout their height.

Formational Process:

Hoodoos are formed by two weathering processes that continuously work together in eroding the edges of the Paunsaugunt Plateau. The primary weathering force at Bryce Canyon is frost wedging. Here we experience over 200 freeze/thaw cycles each year. In the winter, melting snow, in the form of water, seeps into the cracks and freezes at night. When water freezes it expands by almost 10%, bit by bit prying open cracks, making them ever wider in the same way a pothole forms in a paved road.

Rain is also the chief source of erosion (the actual removal of the debris). In the summer, monsoon type rainstorms travel through the Bryce Canyon region bringing short duration high intensity rain.

Preservation Message:

Unfortunately, hoodoos don't last very long. The same processes that create hoodoos are equally aggressive and intent on their destruction. The average rate of erosion is calculated at 2-4 feet (.6-1.3 m) every 100 years. So, it is that Bryce Canyon, as we know it, will not always be here. As the canyon continues to erode to the west it will eventually capture (perhaps 3 million years from now) the watershed of the East Fork of the Sevier River. Once this river flows through the Bryce Amphitheater it will dominate the erosional pattern, replacing hoodoos with a "V" shaped canyon and steep cliff walls typical of the weathering and erosional patterns created by flowing water. Indeed, a foreshadowing of this fate can be observed in Water Canyon while hiking the Mossy Cave Trail. For over 100 years a diversion canal has been taking a portion of the East Fork of the Sevier River through this section of the park and already it's easy to see the changes the flowing water has created.

Hoodoo colors are more vibrant after a rainstorm. Viewing hoodoos in the winter is especially rewarding. Not only does melting snow enrich the colors but the blanket of white adds another dimension to the beauty under the crisp blue sky.

The elevation of Bryce Canyon ranges from around 7,000 to 9,000 feet. Taking a hike into the canyons can mean a drop of several hundred feet.  Well constructed paths make the hikes relatively easy but you must take your time if you are not used to walking or hiking at high elevations.  

I highly recommend Ruby's Inn for lodging and food.  During summer and fall months, they offer a buffet that will fill your belly for hours and give you plenty of fuel for those hikes through the Hoodoos.  Performances run Wednesday through Saturday at 7pm from late May through mid-August.  

I visited Bryce Canyon multiple times in the fall and winter.  There wasn't enough snow to make a huge difference in the view but I have seen other pictures which make the park seem magical in winter.

Have you been to Bryce Canyon NP?  What was your experience like?  What advice would you give to people who are planning to visit the park?  For more information about Bryce Canyon National Park, click the link below.

https://www.nps.gov/brca/index.htm

Big Bend National Park: A Vast and Beautiful Wonderland

Big Bend lives up to both words which make up its famous name.  It is bigger than big and features grand vistas and wide valleys.  There are stunning rock formations, an infamous river and adventures on land and in the water. If you want a more extreme adventure, I recommend driving a four-wheel drive/high center vehicle on some of the dirt roads or take a kayak down the Rio Grande River. 

This is not a barren desert.  The landscape has many different species of plants and cactus.  It is a thriving ecosystem in a place that doesn’t get a ton of precipitation.  In fact, this area averages about 14 inches of precipitation per year.  Obviously the Rio Grande river basin helps but some of these areas like Panther Junction and Chisos Basin produce vibrant foliage. 

Sunset watchers have some choices at Big Bend.  The patio at Chisos Mountain Lodge is pretty wonderful.  If you enjoy a more 360 degree view, Gano Springs Road or the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive give you ample opportunity to see shades of light and shadows against mountains, mesas and rolling hills. 

On a clear day, you can see mountains for miles and miles.  Main Park Road which takes you from Panther Junction to the Persimmon Gap visitor center is a long drive so be prepared.  The road features the Fossil Exhibit which I featured in another article and I highly recommend.  Big Bend is a big park, measuring over 800,000 acres, and this drive covers a huge chunk of land. 

Have you visited Big Bend National Park?  What was your experience like?  For more information on Big Bend, click the link below.

https://www.nps.gov/bibe/index.htm

Big Bend National Park: Boquillas Canyon and Santa Elena Canyon

Boquillas Canyon and Santa Elena Canyon are almost at opposite ends of Big Bend National Park.  Boquillas is a dead end on the eastern arm of the park whereas Santa Elena is a dead end near the western tip of Big Bend.  Both are very remote areas that share the Rio Grande River as their southern border.  The surrounding landscape is equally as beautiful. 

There are a dozen tributaries that feed the old Rio Grande.  Generations have navigated its flow and used its water to farm the land.  You can see the lush vegetation that thrives in the river basin.  It is a shallow river that is lazy at times and swift at others. 

Boquillas Canyon’s jagged walls have been carved by the water.  You can either walk about 1.4 miles roundtrip on the trail along the river or take a 2-4 day rafting trip that will float you 33 miles down the canyon.  Whichever adventure you choose, be sure to wear sunglasses as the steep limestone walls of the canyon reflect the bright sunlight like a mirror. 

Rock formations on the road through Castolon have been shaped by volcanic eruptions occurring over millions of years.  The volcanic remnants protrude through grass, cactus and desert shrubbery.  The land is calm now, awaiting the next volcanic episode. 

Santa Elena Canyon is a grand presentation of how water always wins.  The miniscule waves of the Rio Grande seem to be laughing at the massive rock that has been cut in half by millions of years of water assault.  The river no longer thrashes the limestone walls of the gorge, it is much more peaceful now.  Crossing the 80 feet or so of the Rio Grande is a federal crime as the grasslands at the foot of the cliff is Mexican land.  (Please no comments about immigration). 

Have you visited Big Bend National Park?  What was your experience like? 

https://www.nps.gov/bibe/index.htm

Big Bend National Park: Big Fossils and a Lil Hobo

LIL HOBO

In preparing for my journey to Big Bend National Park, I spent considerable time trying to figure out where I should stay.  The park is huge at 801,163 acres so I knew I would need at least 2 days to cover the major hotspots.  A quick search on Priceline returned 14 results, 11 of which are 70 miles away in either Alpine or Marathon, TX.  The other 3 choices are: a ranch about 40 miles outside the park; a golf resort and spa charging $175/night; and the Chisos Mountain Lodge which is $160/night. 

Those choices didn’t appeal to me so I decided to see what Air BnB offered.  The array of hospitable choices was very limited.  It spanned the typical tent space for $20-40/night, to broken down buses and 60’s and 70’s style pull campers which had zero style upgrades.  I went with the Lil Hobo pull camper for $60/night.  The space also afforded a fire pit, an outdoor shower and a toilet where you weren’t supposed to flush the toilet paper.  I tell no lies here.  I slept here, but did not shower here since I normally left early in the morning before the water would have been warm and returned in the evening when it would have been cold.  Timmmaaayyy can’t do cold showers.  I’m a princess like that.  I could have used the ranch showers a couple miles up the road but I was gone before they opened up in the morning. 

The Lil Hobo is located about 40 miles from the entrance of the park off Terlingua Ranch Road.  It is about 20 miles east of Route 118.  The road is paved for about 12 miles, then dirt for 4 miles, then off-road for 4 miles.  My advice would be to have a high-center vehicle if you are going to stay way out in the wild like this.  This is a great place to watch the sun rise or set and stargazing.  There’s nothing out there except residences that are about a mile apart.  If you want to get away from humanity, this is the place to be.  There are more than a few survivalists with their guns and Don’t Tread on Me Flags.  Make sure that you bring plenty of supplies with you because your food choices are very limited.  You can eat at the lodge in the park or at a couple of restaurants in Terlingua which is a small town just outside the park.  Other than that, your nearest Walmart is in Alpine—70+ miles away.  My recommendation would be, if you don’t mind paying $150-200/night at the Chisos Mountain Lodge then go for it.  If you are cost conscious then look at some of the other choices in the Terlingua area.  If you want to get away from it all then look at the area north of Terlingua on AirBnB.  Places like the Lil Hobo have tons of character and you will appreciate them if you like roughing it more than me.

Fossil Discovery Exhibit

Just off the Main Park Road in the north central area of the park is the Fossil Discovery Exhibit.  It gives a detailed history of the area and how it was under water 90 million years ago.  Huge fish, dinosaurs and flying creatures all lived in the area and are featured in the exhibit.

The Alamosaurus Femur pictured here is 6 feet tall.  For anyone who is fascinated by history or dinosaurs, this is a must-see exhibit. 

Have you visited Big Bend National Park?  What was your experience like?  Click the link for more information about Big Bend.

https://www.nps.gov/bibe/index.htm

Arches National Park: Balanced Rock

Balance:

1)      Noun--an even distribution of weight enabling someone or something to remain upright and steady

2)      Verb--an even distribution of weight enabling someone or something to remain upright and steady

Balanced Rock is one of the main attractions at Arches National Park.  It is a short, easy walk from the parking lot next to Arches Scenic Drive.  It appears that it is precariously perched atop an unstable pile of rocks.  The total height of Balanced Rock is 128 feet, 55 of them being the perched stone itself.  This pronouncement of rock is a photographer’s dream.  It can be captured from all sides (except from above) and the sun can radiate it or be eclipsed by it.  It is there 24 hours a day, seven days a week awaiting its demise.  Until that time, we can continue to marvel at it and appreciate its beauty from sunrise to sunset. 

There are many different rock formations throughout Arches National Park.  Some are fin-like.  It almost appears to be a collection of sandstone sharks approaching.  Some are smooth and soft while others are jagged like the edge of a knife.  Some are thick as a mountain and others are thinner until they end with an edge like a razor.  Others are shaped like beer bottles, thin and round and teetering against each other.  Arches welcomes all kinds of rock formations into its garden of sandstone. 

Have you visited Arches National Park?  What were your impressions?  For more information about Arches National Park, click the link below.

https://www.nps.gov/arch/index.htm

Arches National Park

Man-made arches have been used for centuries in construction.  Structures like the Roman aqueducts, the Sydney Harbour Bridge in Australia and the Arc de Triomphe in Paris are recognizable uses of the arch over time.  But what about natural arches that form in the world?  Arches National Park provides around 2000 examples of arches that have formed naturally. Less than a mile and a half off Arches Scenic Drive are Sand Dune Arch and Broken Arch.  Sand Dune Arch is appropriately named because the walk to the arch is short but it is through deep and very fine sand.  Here is a video of part of the walk. 

When you exit Sand Dune Arch, walk straight to Broken Arch.  Some of the trail has some tricky footing so be careful.  You will be rewarded with a gorgeous arch at the head of the trail.  This trail continues to Devils Garden Campground.  The trip to Broken Arch from the roadside parking lot (near Sand Dune Arch) is approximately 1.3 miles. 

The Devils Garden area provides many great views of multiple arches.  My favorite is Tunnel Arch.  I was lucky enough to be there near the end of the day when the sunlight was glowing directly through the arch.  Not sure is I like the picture in color or black and white better.  What do you think? 

Around the corner from Tunnel Arch is Pine Tree Arch.  This is, by far, the thickest arch I saw.  It looks like someone punched a parallelogram through it to create the arch.  Just outside of the arch provides a view of rock formations.

Delicate Arch is one of the premiere locations for photography in the park.  I did not have time to take the long trail to see the arch up close but I was able to snap a few pictures from the main viewing area. 

Skyline Arch lives up to its name, sitting atop a massive rock formation and peering down at us mere mortals.  It looks like an ice cold blue eye with the sky illuminating its opening. 

Finally, North Window, South Window and Turret Arches.  This is a fantastic location for sunset.  The three arches face the west and the La Sal Mountains are to the south. 

Have you visited Arches National Park?  What were your impressions?  For more information about Arches National Park, click the link below.

https://www.nps.gov/arch/index.htm 

Canyonlands National Park: The Southern Trails

Canyonlands is a park with borders.  There’s the Northern portion of Canyonlands which is mostly encapsulated by the White Rim Trail, a 100 mile route that is only fit for 4 wheel drive vehicles.  Then there is the Southern Canyonlands Park which is separated from the north by the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers and features the Needles.  

Ironically, both regions unfold stunning landscapes just outside their borders.  Rock formations that are no less spectacular than what can be found inside the park are not included within the park’s borders.  The Mineral Road is north of Canyonlands and was featured in this article.

https://www.midlifecrisistraveler.com/national-parks-blog-1/2017/12/30/canyonlands-national-park-mineral-bottom-a-treacherous-trail

This article focuses on the southern area of the park which can be reached via Route 211.  Route 191 starts at Interstate 70 in central Utah and runs south to within a mile of the Mexican border.  Moab is the largest outpost in Utah on 191.  Driving south features the La Sal Mountains on the left and the Abajo Mountains on the right.  Route 211 appears to be your everyday run of the mill access road until around mile 6 when it reveals huge rock formations and glorious valleys bathed in sunlight.  Any 1950’s western could have been filmed here, it is that picturesque.  

This land was formed 300 million years ago.  Twenty-nine different times this area was flooded with sea water. But each time the water  drained back to the ocean, leaving a legacy of beauty and history.   

The interior of the park is a collection of scenic views, camping sites and hiking trails.  Beware, some of the ravens can be aggressive.  I saw a couple of them sitting on people’s cars while they were hiking.  There are a few roads but much of the land is only accessible via four wheel drive or hiking.  The Needles is the prominent area of this section of the park.  Many boulders can be seen sitting atop rock formations exposed by millions of years of erosion.

The southern portion of Canyonlands National Park is beautiful, but the grandiosity that exists just outside the park is the highlight of this journey.  I hope you will enjoy both areas.

Have you visited Canyonlands National Park?  What was your experience like?

For more information about Canyonlands National Park, click the link below.

https://www.nps.gov/cany/index.htm

Canyonlands National Park: Mineral Bottom, A Treacherous Trail

Top of the switchbacks

Starting the way down

Halfway to the bottom

Looking up to the top

Canyonlands is an eye-popping park.  Although there are some unique and striking vantage points peering down into the canyons, there are a limited number of paved roads that will allow the average visitor a comprehensive experience of what the park offers.  One unpaved road that is accessible to two-wheel drive vehicles is the Mineral Road.  Although it branches off from Route 313, the main road into Canyonlands, it doesn’t lead into Canyonlands National Park.  The journey down Mineral Road is rather unspectacular but the destination, Mineral Bottom, is a fascinating adventure.

The road ends with a perilous switchback and harrowing drive to the edge of the Green River. I have a near-paralyzing fear of heights which I am currently trying to deal with.  This experience was one that I will never forget.  In some areas of the road, there are concrete slabs which were placed on the mountain when part of the road washed out or collapsed.  There are other areas where the road is so narrow, there is only a foot between the edge of the cliff and the tire of the car.  In those cases, there is zero margin for error.

Click the link for additional pictures and details. 

http://www.dangerousroads.org/north-america/usa/791-mineral-bottom-usa.html

Video of someone driving on the road

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WfqsT1reUgU

The destination, called Mineral Bottom, is worth the treachery that one must endure.  At the base of the mountain, the road forks north and south.  I drove about a mile north and discovered a boat ramp.  Since it was late in the day I did not have time to drive the full length of the road so I drove south to see what else I could see.  About 2 miles south of the fork, I encountered some very soft sand.  When driving on these dirt roads, it is imperative that you use extreme caution.  Some roads are very desolate and there is no cell phone service.  If you get stuck, you could be there for hours before someone drives by.  Some trails not only have soft sand but quicksand as well.  Since I did not have a 4-wheel drive vehicle at my disposal, I chose to take what pictures I could and head for the exit. 

I highly recommend a trip to this area but you need to have a very experienced driver, someone who will not have a fear of heights or treacherous roads.  You should drive through this area with a 4-wheel drive vehicle to complete the trip as safely as possible.  Always consult with park rangers or area guides who can advise you whether it is safe to explore this type of terrain.  It might not be safe to drive down the switchback when it is wet so definitely consult someone who is familiar with these roads.  I loved this area and will definitely visit it again when I return to Canyonlands.

Have you visited Mineral Bottom?  What was your experience like? 

Click the link for more information about Canyonlands National Park.

https://www.nps.gov/cany/index.htm

Canyonlands National Park: Island in the Sky

“Hope is like a road in the country; there was never a road, but when many people walk on it, the road comes into existence.”

— Lin Yutang

On an overcast and extremely windy autumn day, Grand View Point Road is a lonely, winding trail curving left and right through the desert.  There is no indication of the dramatic wonderland that is simply a few hundred yards to the left or right.

Reaching the end at Grandview Point reveals only 3 other vehicles with visitors exploring the trails.  The weather has intimidated the tourist crowd today with 40-50 mile per hour wind gusts.  Who in their right mind would step near the edge of a thousand-foot ledge when the wind is that strong?  Of course I would. 

Canyonlands not only reveals one drop in depth but multiple drops.  It’s a canyon within a canyon.  Visitors are given the choice to peer over the edge from vantage points along Grand View Point Road down at the canyons or drive around the park on the White Rim Road which requires a four-wheel drive vehicle.  The White Rim Road is 100 miles long and the park service recommends that you take two days to complete it.   

The canyon reveals levels of erosion from the last 320 million years or so.  Multiple colors and structure of rock have been carved from water and wind.  The Colorado and Green rivers both cut through this park and meet further south of Grand View Point. 

Mesa Arch is one of the most famous places to photograph the sunrise.  Alas, the clouds have spoiled this luxury today.  The arch still holds its value as a scenic wonder.  Its precarious perch defies gravity for now.  Sometime in the next billion years it may face its ultimate demise. 

Climbing near-vertical mountains isn’t easy so a series of switchbacks allows vehicles to slowly inch their way to the top safely.  It is imperative to maintain attention to the road as guardrails and barriers are nowhere to be found.  This is the wild where only the strong and smart survive. 

For more information about Canyonlands National Park, click the link below.

https://www.nps.gov/cany/index.htm

Have you visited Canyonlands National Park?  What was your experience like? 

Great Smoky Mountains National Park: Fire and Waterfalls

Fire

One cannot visit the Great Smoky Mountains and ignore the reality of what took place between late November and mid-December 2016.  Forest fires started and spread throughout the area of the park and Gatlinburg as well as some other towns several miles north.  Fourteen people died and 134 people were injured.  Here are some pictures of the areas that were burned.  Many of these areas have already started to recover.  You can see that the fire came dangerously close to a good number of hotels on the edge of the park. 

Waterfalls

There are various waterfalls throughout the park.  These two falls: Juney Whank and Tom Branch Falls are in an area southwest of Route 441.  Upon leaving the park on Route 441, take Route 19 South until you reach Bryson City.  Drive north past the Smoky Mountain Campground and you are within walking distance of three waterfalls.  Due to the late time of the day, I was only able to capture two of the falls in pictures and video.  This is a very secluded area.  I only saw two people while I spent an hour or so there.  The Juney Whank Falls are up a rather steep hill whereas the Tom Branch Falls are a short, flat walk from the parking lot.  If you want to get away from the hustle and bustle of Gatlinburg or Clingman’s Dome, this is the place.  Enjoy.

Tom Branch Falls

Have you visited Great Smoky Mountains National Park?  What was your experience like?  Which waterfall is your favorite?  You can read more about this National Park by clicking the link below.

https://www.nps.gov/grsm/index.htm

Great Smoky Mountains National Park: The Heart and Soul of the Park

Please be patient, it may take a minute for all of the pictures and video to load.

East and Southeast

Interstate 40 is the eastern border for Great Smoky Mountains National Park.  It doesn’t afford a lot of scenic views so you might want to get off the highway and take either Route 339 or Route 32 for some picture taking opportunities.  The east side of the park is not as developed as the central area of the park.  There are many old residences on the back roads here and sometimes you might just end up on someone’s driveway.  I don’t recommend spending much time in this area of the park because of the limited scenic overlooks that have been established.  The Cataloochee area in the southeastern block of the park has herds of elk that you might be able to see but be careful, they are very large animals and could attack if you get too close.

Central

Route 441 literally cuts the park in half.  This is the heart and soul of the park.  There are many scenic overlooks and hiking trails where you can enjoy the environment and make memories with your camera.  This is also how you can reach Clingman’s Dome (you can read more about Clingman’s here ( https://www.midlifecrisistraveler.com/national-parks-blog-1/2017/12/12/great-smoky-mountains-national-park-clingmans-dome ) and the Fontana Lake area. 

Other Facts

When I was driving to Great Smoky Mountains National Park, I came upon an area that I didn’t know existed.  What I mean is that I had no idea that this area of Route 66 between Interstate 40 and Gatlinburg was so built up.  It is a 30 mile drive filled with hotels, restaurants, amusement parks, tourist trap entertainment and shopping.  I tend to like National Parks where there is less of the commercial world and more nature-focused.  If I had to recommend a National Park that is more nature-focused, I would recommend Shenandoah NP over Smoky Mountains.  I would recommend that you visit both and see which one you like better but, for my choice, I would take Shenandoah as my top selection.   

Have you visited Great Smoky Mountains National Park?  What did you like about it?  What is your favorite area?  For more information about this National Park, click on the link below.

https://www.nps.gov/grsm/index.htm

Great Smoky Mountains National Park: Clingman's Dome

The Smoky Mountains, rays of sunlight piercing the clouds and a fog bank overwhelming a ridge like you would see in San Francisco, that’s what a visit to Clingman’s Dome is like.  Clingman’s is: the third highest point east of the Mississippi; the tallest mountain in the Smoky Mountain Range; and peers down paternally on the rest of the Smokies.  It can’t be ignored or avoided, it is too impressive for that. 

The parking lot provides a carnival-like atmosphere.  There are families taking pictures, elderly waiting for the bathroom and hikers challenging themselves to take a brisk walk to the observation tower without stopping to catch their breath.  This mountain is over 6,600 feet above sea level and the walk from the parking area to the tower, although not far, is very steep which is challenging for those who live at much lower elevations. 

Unfortunately, the observation tower is currently closed due to renovations.  It is expected to open again in the spring of 2018.  Seven and a half miles of the Appalachian Trail crosses the mountain just north of the observation tower.  There are also many other trails of varying grades that can satisfy the appetite of any avid hiker. 

It was overcast during my visit but I definitely recommend spending some time here.  The observation tower is scheduled to re-open in April 2018.  I would schedule a visit after that date so you can enjoy the 360 degree view from the top of the mountain. 

Have you been to Clingman’s Dome?  What was your experience like there? 

For more information about the Clingman’s Dome area, click on the link.

https://www.nps.gov/grsm/planyourvisit/clingmansdome.htm

Great Smoky Mountains National Park: Cades Cove

It could be 1817 instead of 2017 and you couldn’t tell the difference.  Time stands still here in Cades Cove.  The horses still gallop in the field, the water still runs through the creek and the old homestead is still standing.  Yes, the Dan Lawson Place is still here.  There is a main house, a stable and a couple of small buildings that might have been used as a smokehouse or corn crib.  The wood is still sturdy and the chimney was made of brick which was rare for pre-civil war times.  Here are more details about the property.

http://www.cadescove.net/dan-lawson-place/

It’s quiet here, real quiet.  The only sound you hear in the field is the occasional cricket or the breeze.  The horses are gentle and will pose for your camera.  They are available for a ride or would appreciate a good petting.  They won’t win any awards for speed but Cades Cove is not for sprinters. 

Life is slow here, real slow.  The Baptists built their church in 1887, while the Methodists erected theirs in 1902.  Being inside the churches isn’t much different than standing outside in Cades Cove.  The valley is a cathedral of nature.  Stop on by when you get the chance.  It’ll probably look pretty much the same when you get here.

Have you visited Cades Cove or Great Smoky Mountains National Park?  What was your experience like? 

Here is a link to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park website

https://www.nps.gov/grsm/index.htm

Hot Springs National Park: The Natural Spa

Spending several hours in a car driving hundreds of miles day after day after day is more strenuous than most people realize.  Even the most comfortable vehicle can elicit a snap, crackle and pop from one’s joints after sitting in the same position for hours at a time.  Hot Springs National Park is perfectly situated if you are making a cross-country journey. 

Hot Springs, Arkansas is located between Routes 30 and 40 just southwest of Little Rock.  It is a small park that packs a wallop.  It offers beautiful views, quiet surroundings and rejuvenating water that would make Ponce De Leon’s head spin.  Visitors take in the surroundings by picnicking, hiking, camping or taking a bath.  That’s right, I said taking a bath. 

A friend of mine recommended the Buckstaff Bathhouse for its soothing treatment.  She is a physician so I must say that it was just what the doctor ordered.  The Buckstaff does not take reservations so it is best to walk in on a weekday when they are not quite as busy.  I went with the $71 package which included: 30 minutes or so in a hot mineral bath (the jets loosen you up); 15 minutes in a Sitz bath (an inferno where you are surrounded by hot steam); 15 minutes wrapped in hot towels (targeting tight muscles wherever you have them); and a 20 minute Swedish massage (Steven was excellent).  This prepared me for my drive to Austin TX that day which meant that I would be in the car for about seven hours.  I was extremely relaxed and it helped me complete my trip safely. 

The Buckstaff is located on Central Avenue (just outside the park) which is also known as Bathhouse Row.  Tours are available or you can just go through the process of having a bath as I did.  There is free parking a block away at the municipal garage. 

I met some friends when I first arrived at the park.  They did not offer me part of their afternoon snack. 

The deer were less than 100 yards away from the famous Hot Springs National Park Mountain Tower.  Here is some video from the observation deck.

Hot Springs is a city but still has a small-town persona.  The view from the Mountain Tower reveals the city.  The roads and trails surrounding it provide the intimate small-town atmosphere.  If you’re looking for a quiet getaway with that small-town feel, Hot Springs is your kind of place. 

Have you visited Hot Springs National Park?  What were your impressions?  Would you recommend this park to other people?

For more information about Hot Springs National Park, click the link below.

https://www.nps.gov/hosp/index.htm

Shenandoah National Park: The Gem of the East Coast

Last night I was watching a repeat of a Seinfeld episode that I’ve probably seen at least a half dozen times.  Despite my familiarity with that particular episode it still brings a smile to my face whenever I watch it.  Driving along Skyline Drive in Shenandoah National Park is a similar experience.  You see view after view of the great expanse below and it never gets old. (These first five pictures are from just one overlook)

The word “WOW” is uttered by nearly everyone who exits their car at one of the dozens of scenic overlooks.  The Appalachian Mountains roll along in an unending wave of trees and leaves.  The slopes of green are peppered with rays of sunlight that poke through the clouds.  The contours of each ridge stand proud like contestants at a beauty contest. 

Skyline Drive meanders 105 miles from Front Royal, Virginia to Route 64 where it turns into The Blue Ridge Parkway.  Within the park, there are 75 designated areas where you can stop and enjoy its beauty.  Most of those turnoffs provide views like these. 

You can’t see forever from here but you can come really close.  The views from atop the mountain ridges are breathtaking.  Visitors spend their time sightseeing, camping, hiking, horseback riding and cycling.  These mountains are perfect if you want to have the Tour De France experience in America. 

There are over 500 miles of trails to hike.  Be aware that you need to have proper walking/hiking shoes and clothing.  I went on a hike to photograph a waterfall.  The mountains are steeply sloped which provides you with the great views of the valleys but they make for strenuous hikes.  Here is my report……..

The busiest time of the year is from summer through the end of October when the leaves change their colors.  There are three choices for lodging in the park with several campgrounds also available.  If you choose to stay outside the park, expect a 20-40 minute drive to one of the surrounding towns. 

Shenandoah National Park is a hidden gem of the east coast.  When I mention it to people they either get a quizzical look on their face or they say, “Oh yeah, we went there years and years ago when I was a kid.  Beautiful place.”  It certainly doesn’t get the recognition it deserves so I encourage everyone to make the trip. 

Have you visited Shenandoah NP?  What was your experience like?  What did you do there?

For more information about Shanadoah National Park, click the link below.

https://www.nps.gov/shen/index.htm

Cuyahoga Valley National Park

Cuyahoga Valley National Park is a charming park which features waterfalls, bridges, wildlife, massive rock formations and a historic canal.  Cuyahoga is different from many other parks in that it was named a national park in 2000, therefore human intrusion left its imprint on the park prior to the designation. 

Brandywine Falls is one of the most popular waterfalls in the park.  These pictures show a decent flow but it can be a much heavier flow at different times of the year or after significant rainfall. 

The area between Cleveland and Akron was very rural in the early 1800’s when the Ohio and Erie Canal was established.  This canal spurred economic development and trade that transformed one of the poorest areas of Ohio into one of the wealthiest areas of the state.

The Great Falls is located at Viaduct Park in the northeast corner of the park.  As you can see from the pictures, the trip to this area is definitely worth it. The journey starts above the falls and flows to the tunnel where the water disappears. 

Cuyahoga is a desirable destination during the fall when the leaves are changing colors.  The forest not only allows just the right amount of sunlight to warm the earth, but it also shrouds many roads with limbs that reach across the pavement. 

The Ledges area is a zoo for enormous rock formations.  Many of these rocks are larger than houses and weigh hundreds of tons. 

This tree had one root that traveled along the rock and ended in the dirt.  This is what I call survival mode.

Our last stop is at the Everett Covered Bridge.  This is a bridge that was rebuilt in 1986 to reflect what the original bridge might have looked like in the 1800's. 

Cuyahoga Valley National Park is a very nice park.  It would not make my top 10 list of best national parks due to some issues.  First, two major highways run through the middle of the park (I-271 and I-80).  Secondly, there is an active rail line running through the park.  There are also many residential roads that cut through the park.  In addition, there are private residences within the borders of the park.  Maybe I am being too nitpicky but I believe that a National Park should have that eye-popping WOW effect.  I didn’t get that feeling at CVNP.  It felt more like a state park or National Forest.  I’m not saying that you shouldn’t go or it’s not worthwhile, but I wouldn’t prioritize it over many other parks in the NP system. 

Have you been to Cuyahoga Valley National Park?  How would you compare it to other parks in the national park system?

For more information about Cuyahoga Valley National Park, click the link below.

https://www.nps.gov/cuva/index.htm

Congaree National Park: Silence is Golden

Hello darkness, my old friend,

I've come to talk with you again.

Because a vision softly creeping,

Left its seeds while I was sleeping.

And the vision that was planted in my brain,

Still remains,

Within the sound of silence.

The Sound of Silence—Simon and Garfunkel

Wandering through Congaree National Park will not elicit feelings of angst or depression that the lyrics of The Sound of Silence might evoke but the overwhelming feeling that you are experiencing a sacred ritual is prevalent.  Although you’ve walked thousands of times through all different types of terrain (cities, suburbs, stores, beaches, etc), one element of this experience has been lacking—silence.  Congaree is amazingly silent and even encountering other hikers means that a courteous hello will be met with hushed tones.  Congaree commands respect without ever uttering a word.

A small park (only 26,000 acres) it boasts 25 miles of hiking trails, camping, fishing, canoeing and kayaking.  I hiked approximately 3 miles between the Boardwalk and Sims Trails, spending time at Weston Lake and Wise Lake. 

A turtle (directly below the 4 x 4 post) makes his way towards the shore in Lake Weston.

The mud between these trails can measure eight feet thick in spots and helps to cleanse the environment of pollution and toxins that would threaten the ecosystem.  My advice is to stay on the trails as much as possible because there are some huge spiders to be found between limbs, leaves, stumps and trees. 

The thick mud seen here helps to maintain a healthy balance in this special forest.

If you look closely just above the center of this picture, you can see a rather large spider resting in its web.

Congaree is (according to the National Park website) home to “the largest intact expanse of old growth bottomland hardwood forest remaining in the southeastern United States.”

Congaree, located about 20 miles southeast of Columbia, SC, is unique in that it is open to the public 24 hours/day, does not charge a fee for entry or use of the park and has a Boardwalk trail that allows disabled visitors (especially in wheelchairs) to enjoy the surroundings.  If you want a secluded place where peace and quiet is your goal (and your phone will be inoperable) Congaree is a destination that you will want to experience. 

A colorful black butterfly travels along the brush.

The roots of the many trees in the forest intertwine like a web of wood.

Have you explored Congaree National Park?  If so, what are your thoughts about this park? 

For more information about Congaree National Park, click the link below.

https://www.nps.gov/cong/index.htm

Sequoia National Park: The Humbling of a Human

Over time, we build more and more confidence and, at times, we might get a bit full of ourselves.  It could be due to conquering responsibilities with work, family, relationships or friendships but we tend to feel a sense of importance that might not be warranted.  Typically, there are inflection points in life where we are brought back to reality and realize that we aren’t necessarily as important as we thought we were.  Sequoia National Park should be prescribed for those who feel they are excessively relevant when, in fact, they really aren’t.  The humbling effect that the Giant Sequoias can impose can bring even the loftiest ego back down to earth.

Imagine standing next to a tree that is one of the oldest living organisms in the world, quite possibly 2000-3000 years old.  How do you relate to that?  If life expectancy is 85 years in the USA, 3000 years equals 35 consecutive lifetimes.  It takes hundreds of years for a Sequoia to reach its full height.  So, imagine planting a tree today and your great, great, great grandchildren might live long enough to see it when it’s fully grown.

More importantly is how unique these trees are.  Their bark is very thick (it can grow to as much as 3 feet thick) and protects the Sequoia’s against fire, extreme elements and temperatures.  Sequoia’s have shallow roots so they are susceptible to falling over.  If their thick, protective bark is still intact when they are toppled, it could take hundreds of years for the tree to decay.  This is clearly demonstrated by the Tunnel tree.  It fell 80 years ago and it is still largely intact. 

The most prominent Sequoia’s were named after military officers due to Union soldiers guarding the groves shortly after the Civil War while the first national parks were being designated.  The National Park Service did not exist back then and loggers would try to cut down the trees if no one was guarding them.

The General Sherman tree is considered the biggest tree on earth based on the sheer volume of wood it contains.  It is in the Giant Forest which is the largest grove of Sequoias in the park.  Sequoias only grow at an elevation between 5000-8000 feet.  They tend to grow on the southern side of mountains and have few large branches because they need lots of sunlight to reach maturity.

Prescribed burns conducted by the National Park Service are used to strengthen the trees.  When Sequoia’s start to burn, they secrete a sap-like substance that acts like medicine to help heal and strengthen the trees.  Here you can see the black area of the wood which was burnt during a prescribed burn.  Taking a tour with one of the knowledgeable Park Rangers is a must to fully understand how unique these trees and this environment is. 

When hiking at this elevation, it is important to wear appropriate clothing, drinking enough fluids and resting when becoming short of breath.  It doesn’t take long to get yourself into a medical emergency in the wild. 

Moro Rock is a massive boulder on top of a mountain.  I have a fear of heights so it was a struggle for me to reach the top.  There are a few railings but, in other spots, there is just a foot-high ledge along the walkway that separates you from a 500-1000 foot fall over the edge.  At the top, there is an aluminum railing where you can walk across the center of the rock.  It provides a nearly 360-degree view of the area.  You can see cars hugging the curves of the mountain on their way to the park.  And the sunsets are absolutely brilliant. 

Route 198 out of Sequoia National Park is a long and winding one.  You have no idea what you will encounter around every corner.  In one of my visits, I came upon some wild boar feeding along the side of the road.  If you are leaving the park at night, I recommend that you take Route 180 back toward Fresno as it is much less treacherous.  Sequoia National Park is an awe-inspiring and humbling experience.  It is a place and experience for explorers of all ages.

Have you been to Sequoia National Park?  What is your favorite part of the park and why?

For more information about Sequoia National Park, click the link below.

https://www.nps.gov/seki/index.htm